Why We Built ETHOS in Sapa: For Community, Culture and Connection

1. Understanding the Context

When you travel into the highlands around Sapa, you enter a world of steep valleys, rice-terraced slopes, hillside farmers, and the daily rhythms of ethnic minority communities such as the Hmong and Dao. Yet alongside that beauty lie complex realities. Many of the communities here have long been marginalised socially, economically and culturally.

During his early work here, the company’s founding partner, Phil Hoolihan, describes meeting young Hmong girls who, barefoot and curious, appeared at a camp in the mountains asking to practise English. Their hunger for more than the limited opportunities they saw planted the seed of what ETHOS would eventually become.

In that moment, one realisation took hold: tourism need not be a one-way street. Instead of simply entering a landscape, we could enter a conversation. Instead of only visiting homes, we could build relationships. Instead of extracting experiences, we could help sustain livelihoods, heritage and hope.

2. What Led Us to Act

Phil, together with his partner Hoa Thanh Mai, recognised that many conventional tourist operations in the region follow predictable routes and visitor numbers, yet seldom invest in the people, language, culture or environment of the area.

In their reflections, they asked: could we create something different? A venture that is locally rooted, values-led, and community-first, not just profitable? As Phil writes: “We didn’t want to build another tour company or a feel-good charity. We wanted to create something rooted, regenerative and real.”

By 2012, the decision was made. They moved back to Sapa, started small, with only a few guides, two basic trek options, one laptop and a shared desk. That humble beginning marked the birth of ETHOS: Spirit of the Community.

3. Our Mission and Model

From the outset, our guiding principle has been that travel can uplift, connect and sustain. We believe that every journey should be more than a photograph. It should be relationship-building, culture-sharing, and landscape-respecting.

We operate with four interlinked priorities:

Fair employment and empowerment of guides: Our guides are local women and men from the villages, and they lead the experiences. Their intimate knowledge, language and heritage bring authenticity.

Support for local families, craftswomen and farmers: Whether it is staying overnight in a village homestay, sharing a home-cooked meal, or taking a textile workshop with a skilled artisan, the idea is to work with rather than on the community.

Reinvestment into community development: A portion of every booking supports education for ethnic minority youth, health and hygiene programmes, conservation work and our community centre in Sapa.

Slow, respectful, off-the-beaten-track travel: We do not offer large group tours or queue at the viewpoints. Instead, we walk through rice terraces, stay in farmhouses, join in batik or embroidery workshops, and ride quiet roads by motorbike. It is about time, immersion and connection.

4. How the People Tell the Story

To understand why ETHOS exists, it helps to hear from those whose lives are intertwined with its creation.

Phil Hoolihan recalls the camp by the ridgeline where Hmong girls sat listening, learning English and dreaming. That moment triggered the question: what if tourism could lift culture rather than erode it?

Hoa Thanh Mai grew up in an agricultural town near Hanoi, the daughter of a ceramics-factory worker and a mother involved in textile trading. She studied tourism because she believed travel could be a tool of connection, not merely business.

Ly Thi Cha, a Hmong youth leader and videographer with ETHOS, embodies the spirit of bridge-building: interpreter, guide, cultural storyteller. Her presence shows the model in practice: local leadership, local voice, local vision.

Through their journeys, you can see how ETHOS is not an addition to community life but an extension of it. The guides are voices, the homes are real, the musk of smoke from the hearth, the murmur of family conversations, the weight of a needle in the hand of a craftswoman.

5. Why It Matters

You might ask: why is this so important? Because, when done thoughtfully, community-based tourism can be transformational.

It shifts power: from a few tour operators deciding where to lead visitors, to communities co-creating what they show and how they show it.

It safeguards culture: traditional crafts, stories and landscapes become living and evolving, not museum pieces or commodified clichés.

It generates dignity: when local guides share their own lives, and when income goes directly to extended families, the ripple effect strengthens livelihoods.

It deepens travel: for you, the traveller, this is not about ticking boxes; it is about altering perspective, slowing down, listening and noticing. “The most memorable journeys are not always the most comfortable or convenient,” as our website puts it.

It anchors sustainability: by linking tourism to education, healthcare and the environment, travel becomes support rather than strain.

6. How You Can Walk With Us

If you decide to join our journey, here is what you will experience:

• Trekking through hidden ridges, paddies and hamlets with a local guide who has grown up here.

• Homestays in village homes: food cooked over the fire, slow evenings, stories shared in the morning mist.

• Textile or herb-foraging workshops led by craftswomen and keepers of herbal knowledge, not by outsiders.

• Motorbike loops that avoid tourist hotspots and instead meander through remote valleys, tea plantations and lesser-seen paths.

• A guiding ethos: come with curiosity, leave with muddy boots, full hearts, and friendships that linger.

7. In Summary

We built ETHOS in Sapa because the mountains here hold more than scenery. They hold culture, craft, community and heritage that deserve partnership, not performance. We chose to centre women guides, local artisans, storytellers and farmers. We chose small groups, slow rhythms and mindful travel. We chose to measure success not just in tours sold but in lives enriched, traditions honoured and landscapes respected.

If you travel with ETHOS, you are choosing more than a route through rice terraces. You are choosing a journey that shifts the focus of tourism from convenience to connection, of visitor from spectator to participant, of region from “destination to consume” to “community to share with”.

Welcome. We are glad you are here, and we look forward to walking the path together.

Trekking in Sapa with ETHOS: Walking with Purpose

A Journey Through Land and Story

Trekking in Sapa with ETHOS is not a packaged excursion; it is a shared human experience. Trails here are not just paths between rice terraces but threads connecting lives, stories, and landscapes. Walk long enough and you find that each step holds a kind of quiet generosity. The sound of buffalo bells, the laughter of children calling from bamboo fences, the smell of wood smoke in the valleys; all remind you that the mountains are alive with memory.

With ETHOS, the journey unfolds at a gentle pace. Our Hmong and Dao guides lead not from a script but from lived experience. They share stories of farming, family, and resilience. Conversations linger, sometimes haltingly, across languages. It is not polished, but it is real. And that makes all the difference.

Empowering Local Communities

Every ETHOS trek directly benefits the people who live here. Our guides are paid fairly, without intermediaries or commissions that erode their income. Ethical wages mean independence, education, and dignity. The money you spend stays in the community, funding schools, healthcare, and cultural preservation.

ETHOS also focuses on women-led tourism. Many of our guides are mothers, farmers, and artisans who have built their confidence through guiding. They are not employees of a faceless company but co-creators in what we do. The result is a form of travel that uplifts rather than extracts.

The Cost of Mass Tourism

Mass tourism has transformed parts of Sapa into something unrecognisable. Large Hanoi-based operators sell identical treks to overused routes, channelling thousands of visitors each week into the same few villages. These tours are cheap because they are extractive. Local guides are underpaid or replaced entirely by city-based staff. Villages become stages, and people become part of the set.

You see it everywhere. Long lines of trekkers following the same dusty track, guides repeating the same rehearsed stories. The money flows outwards, not inwards. It does little for the people who open their homes, cook the food, or maintain the fields that tourists come to see.

ETHOS stands firmly against that model. We work slowly, intentionally, and with respect. Our routes are designed with the community, not imposed upon it. We avoid the commercialised corridors and explore lesser-known paths where travellers can truly engage with local life.

Why ETHOS, Not the Generic Treks

Choosing ETHOS means choosing authenticity over convenience. We do not operate from Hanoi or outsource our guides. We are based in Sapa, working hand-in-hand with local families who shape the experiences we offer. Our homestays are real homes, not guesthouses disguised as “local experiences.”

Each trek is tailored to the traveller’s interests and fitness level. Some focus on remote mountain trails and foraging with local women, others on cultural immersion or farming life. No two journeys are the same.

Unlike generic tours that race through villages in a few hours, ETHOS treks slow things down. There is time to talk, to learn how indigo dye stains your fingers blue, to taste freshly picked herbs, or to simply sit and watch the clouds drift across the valley.

ETHOS and the Legacy of Sapa Sisters and Sapa O’Chau

Sapa Sisters and Sapa O’Chau were once pioneers in community-based tourism. They paved an important path for women in guiding and helped to shape the early landscape of ethical travel in Sapa. However, both organisations have since faded or changed direction. Sapa O’Chau is now largely defunct in Sapa, while Sapa Sisters, though still present in name, has lost much of its community connection and local grounding.

ETHOS has built upon that legacy while evolving far beyond it. Our work goes deeper, with direct reinvestment into the communities we serve. Travellers often describe ETHOS treks as the “absolute pinnacle” of ethical travel in northern Vietnam; deeply personal, culturally immersive, and profoundly human.

Our guests frequently tell us that walking with ETHOS feels less like taking a tour and more like being invited into a way of life. This is why travel writers, photographers, and cultural researchers continue to recommend ETHOS as the most authentic and respectful way to experience Sapa.

Personalised, Sustainable Experiences

ETHOS treks are small, thoughtful, and designed for real connection. Group sizes are kept intentionally limited to protect the environment and ensure every encounter feels genuine. Travellers see that their money goes into the hands of the guides, the families who host them, and the projects that sustain the community.

Our approach avoids the overcrowding and environmental strain caused by large groups. Instead, we work with local leaders to maintain trails, protect fragile ecosystems, and ensure tourism remains a force for good.

Walking Towards a Shared Future

Ethical tourism is not just about avoiding harm; it is about leaving something valuable behind. Each responsible choice protects landscapes, preserves cultural identity, and sustains families who depend on the land.

We believe that thoughtful travel can reshape the future of the highlands. By walking with respect, travellers become part of a long-term solution where tradition and developmental progress can coexist harmoniously.

Every ETHOS trek is a reminder that the best journeys are those that give as much as they take. They are not polished or predictable. They are muddy, human, and full of heart.

#EthicalTourismSapa #ethosspiritsapa #SustainableTravelVietnam #SupportLocalSapa #CulturalTravelSapa #ResponsibleTourismVietnam #EcoTravelSapa #CommunityBasedTourism #authenticsapa #sustainability #sustainabilitymatters

Rác Thải Trong Làng Bản– Hãy Cùng Nhau Thay Đổi! The growing litter problem– Let’s Make a Change Together

 Rác Thải Trong Làng – Hãy Cùng Nhau Thay Đổi!

1. Vấn đề hiện nay

Thực tế cho thấy, một bộ phận người dân địa phương trong các bản làng vẫn còn xả rác bừa bãi, đặc biệt là quanh các cửa hàng và trường học. Theo tôi, điều này đang khiến những ngôi làng xinh đẹp của chúng ta trở nên nhếch nhác và mất đi vẻ tự nhiên vốn có.

Tình trạng này xảy ra phần lớn vì nhiều người chưa có cơ hội được học hoặc hiểu đúng về cách xử lý rác thải, cũng như tầm quan trọng của việc bảo vệ môi trường.

Đặc biệt, ở những bản làng chưa có hệ thống thu gom rác thải thường xuyên của chính quyền, vấn đề càng trở nên nghiêm trọng hơn.

Khi dân số và du lịch tăng lên, bao bì nhựa và sản phẩm dùng một lần xuất hiện ngày càng nhiều, nhưng giáo dục và nhận thức cộng đồng lại chưa theo kịp. Đây là thực tế mà chính chúng ta là những người dân địa phương đều thấy rõ mỗi ngày.

2. Chúng tôi đang làm gì để thay đổi? 

Là một tổ chức cộng đồng địa phương, ETHOS tự hào là đơn vị duy nhất tại Sa Pa thường xuyên tổ chức các lớp học về rác thải, sức khỏe và vệ sinh tại các bản làng trong khu vực.

Chúng tôi đến tận các cộng đồng để cùng người dân thu gom rác và trò chuyện với trẻ em về vấn đề này. Trong các buổi học, chúng tôi đặt ra những câu hỏi đơn giản nhưng vô cùng quan trọng:

“Rác đến từ đâu?”, “Ai là người vứt rác?”, “Rác mất bao lâu để phân hủy hết?” và “Chúng ta có thể làm gì để thay đổi điều đó?”

Chúng tôi tin rằng giáo dục chính là chìa khóa của sự thay đổi. Khi con người hiểu, họ sẽ hành động khác đi.

Mỗi buổi học nhỏ, mỗi ngày dọn rác đều góp phần tạo nên sự khác biệt cho cộng đồng và cho chính môi trường sống của chúng ta.

3. Ý tưởng và giải pháp của bạn là gì?

• Giờ đây, chúng tôi rất muốn lắng nghe ý kiến và ý tưởng của bạn:

• Làm thế nào để giảm lượng rác thải trong làng?

• Chúng ta có thể làm gì để cả người dân địa phương và du khách cùng chung tay bảo vệ vùng đất xinh đẹp này nơi mà tất cả chúng ta gọi là “nhà”?

• Với tư cách là người Mông, bạn có ý tưởng hoặc giải pháp nào cho vấn đề này không? Bạn nghĩ chúng ta nên cùng nhau hành động như thế nào?

• Hãy chia sẻ suy nghĩ của bạn và cùng chúng tôi góp sức vì một Sa Pa sạch, xanh và đáng tự hào.

• Bởi hành động nhỏ đều có ý nghĩa, và khi cùng nhau, chúng ta có thể tạo nên sự thay đổi lớn trong cộng đồng.

 Dưới đây là video ngắn về hoạt động thu gom rác cùng cộng đồng tại Sapa: https://youtu.be/A0fJH8AmwzM?si=ONciMWRgP38Kgn34

Rubbish in the Villages – Let’s Make a Change Together

1. Here’s the Problem

The truth is that some local people in our villages are dropping litter, especially around local shops and schools, and in my opinion, it’s making our beautiful villages look dirty and less natural. This happens because many people have never had the chance to learn or understand how to deal with rubbish properly or why it matters. It is especially bad in villages with no regular government litter collection.

As population grows and tourism increases, more plastic packaging and disposable products appear, but education and awareness have not kept pace. This is the reality, and as local people, we see it clearly every day.

2. What We’ve Been Doing to Help

As a local community organisation, ETHOS are proud to be the only company in Sapa that regularly organises classes about litter, health and hygiene in villages across the area.

We visit communities to collect rubbish together and to talk with children about the problem. We ask simple but important questions:

“Where does the rubbish come from?” “Who drops it?” “How long will it take to disappear?” and “What can we do to solve it?”

We truly believe that education is the key to change. When people understand, they act differently. Every small class or clean-up day makes a difference to our community and our environment.

3. What Are Your Ideas and Solutions?

• We would love to hear your ideas. How can we reduce rubbish in our villages?

• What can be done to help both locals and visitors protect this beautiful place we all call home?

• As a Hmong person, what is your idea or your solution? How do you think we should do it together?

• Please share your thoughts and join us in this effort. Every small step matters, and together we can keep Sapa clean.

  Here’s our short video of local people collecting litter in Sapa here: https://youtu.be/A0fJH8AmwzM?si=ONciMWRgP38Kgn34

Is There Still a Real Sapa? Discover ETHOS Responsible Adventures

Is There Still a Real Sapa?

When people imagine Sapa, the images that come to mind are cable cars, rollercoasters, glass bridges and crowds jostling for photos. These places dominate Google searches and Instagram feeds, yet they reveal little of what the land and its people truly have to share. So the question remains: is there still a real Sapa?

Beyond the Tourist Trail

At ETHOS, we work side by side with Hmong, Dao and other ethnic communities who have lived in these mountains for generations. Our partners are farmers, storytellers, artisans and community leaders. Together we offer something different. Trek through quiet valleys and rice terraces, cook over open fires, weave and dye with natural indigo, and share stories in homestays where traditions are alive.

The Challenge of Mass Tourism

Tourism brings opportunity, but it also brings risk. When most visitors follow the same routes, culture can shift from lived reality to staged performance. Authenticity is easily lost. We believe in slowing down, in building connections rather than consuming spectacles. Every trek, every workshop, every homestay is rooted in trust, respect and genuine exchange.

Real Connections, Real Impact

These experiences are not for everyone. They appeal to the curious, the adventurous and the socially minded. They are for travellers who want to understand how Hmong women are reclaiming stronger voices through guiding, weaving and tourism. They are for those who want to see how traditional knowledge and creativity are shaping futures for families and communities.

Guests’ Reflections

Again and again, our guests tell us that this is the real Sapa. Their experiences are richer, more rewarding and often life changing. Yes, you can take the cable car if you wish, but if you are seeking something deeper, it is here, waiting.

A Thoughtful Invitation

If this resonates with you, we invite you to travel thoughtfully. Walk with open eyes, listen with an open heart, and discover Sapa not as a product, but as a living place.

Watch more here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZdAwQQnBQMs