Before expressways, cable cars and crowded viewpoints, Sapa was a quiet mountain town where the rhythms of life followed the seasons rather than tourism. I first arrived in 1998 as a young research assistant working with Frontier, The Society for Environmental Exploration, on biodiversity surveys that would later help inform the creation of Hoàng Liên National Park.

Over the following thirteen weeks, I lived under canvas, crossed rivers on foot, shared meals with Hmong families, explored forests few foreign visitors had seen and discovered that the greatest lessons often came not from scientific fieldwork, but from the people who welcomed us into their world. This is a personal account of a very different Sapa, where the market still served mountain communities, children came to camp to practise English and friendships formed in the rain have endured for nearly three decades.