Insights and Stories from Sapa and the Northern Borderbelt provinces of Vietnam.
The Cultural Threads of Hmong Hemp Weaving
For the Hmong people of northern Vietnam hemp weaving is a craft and a living tradition that celebrates culture, family and the enduring connection between people and nature.
A Living Tradition
Hemp, or Cannabis sativa, has long been a valuable fibre cultivated by the Hmong people in the mountains of northern Vietnam. For generations, it has been used to make clothing that reflects both identity and artistry.
Hmong women take great pride in their handmade garments, especially the beautifully pleated hemp skirts worn during festivals, weddings and market days. Each piece represents weeks of work and a deep understanding of the land. The process of growing, harvesting and weaving hemp connects families to their heritage and to the natural world that sustains them.
Symbolism and Cultural Meaning
Hemp holds an important place in Hmong life beyond its practical use. At funerals, the deceased are dressed in hemp clothing, with women traditionally wearing four skirts. Family members and guests also wear hemp attire as a sign of respect.
Children often prepare hemp garments for their parents in advance, a gesture of love and duty. Hemp cloth is also used in spiritual worship and as part of wedding gifts. A bride is expected to wear a hemp skirt made by her mother-in-law, symbolising unity, respect and the joining of families.
From Seed to Cloth
Many Hmong subgroups across Vietnam’s highlands grow hemp, keeping alive a tradition that is both sustainable and culturally rich. Producing hemp cloth takes around seven months and involves detailed, physical work.
The hemp is sown in early May following age-old customs believed to encourage strong growth. After about two and a half months, the plants are harvested and the stalks are dried before being stripped for fibre. The long process of connecting and spinning the fibres produces strong, smooth threads, which are then woven into fabric on simple wooden looms.
The final cloth is washed and pressed many times to achieve a soft, smooth texture. Each finished piece tells a story of patience, craftsmanship and connection to nature.
Preserving Cultural Heritage
Hemp weaving continues to represent more than just a craft for the Hmong. It is a symbol of cultural resilience, sustainability and identity. Every strand spun and woven carries the memory of generations who have kept these traditions alive through care and dedication.
Hemp Workshops
ETHOS - Spirit of the Community work with local Hmong artisans to create hemp based workshops. Please see our website for more information.
Experience This With ETHOS
Join our ethical trekking tours in Sapa
Stay in authentic Hmong homestays
Discover Sapa’s culture with our workshops
Last Chance to See: A Century of Hmong Clothing in Northern Vietnam
A visual journey through Hmong clothing across four regions of Northern Vietnam, revealing how tradition, identity, and textile art have survived for over a century.
Last Chance to See: Clothing, Change, and Continuity
As part of a photo series titled Last Chance to See, ETHOS explores how clothing has changed over more than a century while still holding deep cultural meaning. This series looks closely at what has endured, what has adapted, and why traditional dress continues to matter today.
Today’s focus is on the Hmong people living in four distinct regions of Northern Vietnam: Mu Cang Chai, Sapa, Ha Giang, and Bac Ha. Each region tells its own story through colour, texture, and design.
The Hmong People and Cultural Identity
Throughout recorded history, the Hmong have remained identifiable as Hmong. This continuity comes from maintaining their language, customs, and ways of life, even while adopting elements from the countries in which they live.
Clothing plays a central role in this identity. It is not simply something to wear, but a visible expression of belonging, heritage, and pride.
Regional Differences in Hmong Dress
Many Hmong groups are distinguished by the colour and details of their clothing. Black Hmong traditionally wear deep indigo dyed hemp garments, including a jacket with embroidered sleeves, a sash, an apron, and leg wraps. Their clothing is practical, durable, and rich in subtle detail.
Flower Hmong are known for their brightly coloured traditional costumes. These outfits feature intricate embroidery, bold patterns, and decorative beaded fringe, making them immediately recognisable.
Paj Ntaub: The Language of Cloth
An essential element of Hmong clothing and culture is paj ntaub, pronounced pun dow. This is a complex form of traditional textile art created through stitching, reverse stitching, and reverse appliqué.
Meaning, Skill, and Tradition
Traditionally, paj ntaub designs are ornamental and geometric. They are mostly non representational and do not depict real world objects, with the occasional exception of flower like forms. The making of paj ntaub is done almost exclusively by women.
These textiles are sewn onto clothing and act as a portable expression of cultural wealth and identity. Paj ntaub play an important role in funerary garments, where the designs are believed to offer spiritual protection and guide the deceased towards their ancestors in the afterlife. They are also central to Hmong New Year celebrations.
Before each New Year, women and girls create new paj ntaub and new clothing. Wearing clothes from the previous year is considered bad luck. These new garments reflect creativity, skill, and even a woman’s suitability as a successful wife.
Why Hmong Clothing Endures
Despite major cultural and social change over the past century, Hmong clothing has endured. Its survival lies in its deep connection to identity, belief, skill, and community. Each stitch carries meaning, and each garment tells a story that continues to be passed from one generation to the next.
The Heart of the Highlands: The Hmong and Their Water Buffalo
In the highlands of northern Vietnam, the Hmong share a close partnership with their water buffalo, animals that shape their fields, traditions and way of life.
Strength in the Fields
In the mist-covered highlands of northern Vietnam, water buffalo have long stood as steady companions to the Hmong people. They are not merely animals of burden; they are the pulse of rural life. Their strength and endurance make the cultivation of rice and corn possible on steep, uneven slopes where machinery cannot reach. When the plough cuts through the damp earth, it is guided not just by human hands but by a rhythm shared between farmer and buffalo, a quiet understanding built over generations.
For many Hmong families, the buffalo ensures survival. It provides the muscle for planting and the means to feed entire communities. In return, it receives careful attention, shade in the summer heat, clean water from mountain streams, and the steady hand of a child who guides it home at dusk.
A Living Symbol of Wealth and Honour
To own a water buffalo in Sapa is to hold both pride and security. Only about one in ten families in the district have the means to keep them, and for most, they are the most valuable possession they will ever own. Beyond their labour, buffalo represent wealth, stability, and prestige. Their presence at cultural rituals, particularly funerals, underscores their deep spiritual importance.
For the Hmong, the animal embodies prosperity and endurance. Its image appears in folk tales, songs, and embroidery patterns that tell stories of strength and loyalty. It stands as a quiet symbol of the patience required to live in harmony with the mountains.
Guardians of the Land
Between September and April, when the fields lie fallow, buffalo roam semi-wild across the forests and valleys of Sapa. As planting season approaches, they are brought back to graze under watchful eyes. Children often take on this role, herding the animals with laughter and care, ensuring they stay clear of the tender new shoots of rice and corn.
Families work together to protect them, repairing fences, building shelters, and collecting forage. It is a labour of respect, an act of reciprocity. The health of the buffalo is tied to the well-being of the family itself.
A Bond Beyond Work
It might sound strange to those who have never lived alongside them, but water buffalo are often treated as part of the family. They are spoken to softly, their moods understood, their habits anticipated. Farmers know the sound of their calls as well as their own children’s voices. When a buffalo falls ill, the worry is genuine, almost personal.
This bond is rooted in necessity, yes, but also in affection. Over time, work shared under sun and rain builds something deeper than utility. It becomes companionship, one that bridges the fragile line between human and animal.
The Spirit of the Mountains
In Hmong culture, the water buffalo stands as a reminder that strength is not loud or boastful; it is steady, enduring, and gentle when it needs to be. These animals carry the land’s memory in every step, shaping terraces, feeding families, and quietly weaving themselves into the rhythm of mountain life.
They are, in the truest sense, the heart of the highlands.
The Evolving Art of Hmong Textiles in Northern Vietnam
The Hmong of Vietnam are known for expressive textiles full of history, identity, and artistry. Today these traditions are evolving. Are they being protected or transformed?
The Evolving Art of Hmong Textiles in Northern Vietnam
The Heritage of Hmong Clothing
The Hmong people of Vietnam have a long history of creating clothing that reflects their identity and traditions. Textiles are more than fabric. They are a visual language that shows who someone is and where they come from.
Each Hmong subgroup has its own recognisable style. White, Black, Flowery, Red, and Blue Hmong communities are known for different colours, patterns, and decorative techniques. Women’s pleated skirts often include detailed embroidery, batik designs, and appliqué. Blouses and aprons are bright and full of symbolic motifs. Men’s clothing is simpler but still carries meaningful tradition.
Crafting Textiles by Hand
For centuries, Hmong families have relied on handwoven hemp and natural indigo dye. Every step was done by hand. Growing and processing hemp took great effort. Embroidery was slow and highly skilled work passed down from mothers to daughters.
These garments were more than clothing. They showed cultural knowledge and community belonging. Each stitch was carefully placed with purpose.
Modern Influences and Adaptations
Change is happening. Many Hmong households now use commercial cotton and some synthetic materials because they are affordable and easy to work with. This allows clothes to be made more quickly and sold in markets or to tourists.
Some subgroups are responding in a different way by adding more embroidery and creativity than ever before. Their designs are more detailed and far more time consuming to make. Clothing has become a canvas for new artistic expression.
Tourism has created economic opportunities but also brought challenges. Traditional hemp skirts are becoming rare in some villages. Yet hemp fabrics and indigo dyeing are still practised and remain a strong part of cultural identity.
What Textiles Tell Us
When you visit Hmong communities in northern Vietnam, take time to notice the details. Clothing can show migration stories, family history, resilience, and pride in heritage. Patterns and colours protect against misfortune and honour ancestors.
Buying directly from local artisans supports families and helps preserve skills that have lasted for generations.
A Question for You
As traditions evolve, what should stay the same?
Should Hmong textile makers embrace new materials and markets, or is there a risk that important cultural knowledge will be lost?
I would love to hear your thoughts.
Hmong Shamanic Rituals and Lunar New Year Traditions in Vietnam
A rare insight into Hmong shamanic beliefs and a powerful Lunar New Year ceremony that brings community, spirits and healing together in Vietnam.
Hmong Shamanic Rituals and Lunar New Year Traditions in Vietnam
Beliefs in Souls and Spirits
The Hmong are traditionally animist with most Hmong believing in the spirit world and in the interconnectedness of all living things. At the center of these beliefs lies the Txiv Neeb, the shaman (literally, “father/master of spirits”). According to Hmong cosmology, the human body is the host for a number of souls. The isolation and separation of one or more of these souls from the body can cause disease, depression and death. Curing rites are therefore referred to as “soul-calling rituals”. Whether the soul became separated from the body because it was frightened away or kidnapped by an evil force, it must return in order to restore the integrity of life.
Entering the Spirit World
A shaman is transported to another world via a “flying horse,” a wooden bench usually no wider than the human body. The bench acts as a form of transportation to the other world. The shaman wears a paper mask while he is reaching a trance state. The mask not only blocks out the real world, so the shaman can concentrate, but also acts as a disguise from evil spirits in the spirit world. During episodes when shamans leap onto the flying horse bench, assistants will often help them to balance. It is believed that if a shaman falls down before his soul returns to his body, he or she will die.
The shaman is considered a master of ecstasy. It is thought that his soul becomes detached from his or her body during a séance in order to leave for the spirit world. The shaman becomes a spirit and put him or herself on an equal standing with the other spirits. The shaman can see them, talk to them, touch them, and if necessary catch them and liberate them so they can return home.
Sacrifice and Healing
In Hmong culture, the souls of sacrificial animals are connected to human souls. Therefore a shaman uses an animal’s soul to support or protect a human soul. Often healing rituals are capped by a communion meal, where everyone attending the ritual partakes of the sacrificed animal who has been prepared into a meal. The event is then ended with the communal sharing of a life that has been sacrificed to mend a lost soul.
A Lunar New Year Shamanic Ceremony
Beginning the Ceremony
Participants at this lunar new year event begin arriving from early morning, each bringing gifts of incense, shamanic paper and an offering of meat in the form of pork or chickens. The shaman in charge of this ritual, Lý A Cha, begins the ceremony with a chant, using a mixture of Hmong and an ancient dialect called Mon Draa. Even to an outsider’s ear, his words sound different from everyday Hmong speech. The literal meaning of each word has become obscure to many present-day Hmong, even sometimes to those who chant it, yet the purpose of the ritual is to invite the too Xeeb spirit to manifest itself during the ceremony, to accept the offerings of those present, and to agree to provide them with blessings.
Divination with Kuaj Neeb
As he chants Lý A Cha throws the Kuaj Neeb on the ground repeatedly. The Kuaj Neeb is a tool for divination made from two halves of a buffalo horn. They are used to determine which way the soul has gone. The two pieces comprise a couple, and are separately referred to as male or female. When both pieces of the Kuaj Neeb land fat side down pointing in opposite directions, it is believed that the spirits have accepted the offerings and are willing to come to the ceremony to fulfil all wishes made by the participants.
Gong, Sacrifice and Protection
Next, the shaman beats the Nruag Neeb (a small black metal gong) three times while a sacrificial pig is placed on a wooden table next to the altar. The gong amplifies the shaman’s power. It represents spiritual strength through its penetrating, reverberating sound. It also serves to protect the shaman from evil spirits, like a shield.
The villagers have pooled their money to buy the large sacrificial pig, an offering to ask for a New Year blessing for the entire community. Its jugular vein is expertly slit, and there is much jubilation as the first drops of blood are caught in ritual bowls. The animal’s death throes are brief with laughter and happiness deriving from anticipation of the food which the pig will provide, and the prospect of future blessings gained from the animal’s sacrifice.
Calling Spirits and Reading Fate
The shaman follows this by throwing the Kuaj Neeb down on the ground several times, while he chants in Mon Draa. He holds the Nruag Neeb in his left hand. With his right, he alternately strikes the gong several times with the beater. He continues this alternation three times, while he chants in Mon Draa, in order to summon and communicate with the spirits to ask for their blessing (pauj thwv rig).
While the shaman conducts various parts of the ceremony, young men prepare and cook the meat while the women supervise and cook rice. Rhythmic dancing takes place through the day, always in same sex quartets dressed fully in Hmong clothing, yet with bare feet. Each dancer has their own gong and moves together in diagonal lines throughout the space in front of the altar.
Fire, Smoke and Spiritual Energy
As the ceremony enters the afternoon, a second shaman arrives. Giàng A Pho has been studying as an apprentice for many years and is well respected and highly regarded in his own right. Decoratively cut bamboo paper is placed in a line across the floor, one in front of each participant. Bamboo paper is used during shamanic rituals, in divination ceremonies and on other occasions. Today, the shaman chants in front of each participant for several minutes, repeatedly using the split buffalo horns before moving on to the next person. Once completed, the line of papers are ignited and left to burn out. The ashes are then read, allowing the shaman to make statements about peoples spiritual health as well as predictions about when each participant should have their own individual séances.
Next, a pyre is constructed made from the shamanic papers collected during ceremonies through the previous years. These are ignited by Giàng A Pho and manipulated using bamboo poles into a smouldering pile of embers. While Lý A Cha chants in Mon Draa, four other men begin beating their individual gongs with increasing ferocity, reaching a deafening crescendo before Lý A Cha rolls through the embers causing a burst of flames to leap into the air. The other men soon follow, before jumping up and beginning a loud and rhythmical dance through the room now drenched in thick smoke. Their bare feet send sparks flying as they pound the ground.
Offering Food to Spirits and Community
As the smoke clears, two bowls of meat and rice are placed on the altar, along with small cups of homemade rice wine. After toasting the spirits and drinking the rice wine, the shaman cuts some small pieces of pork and puts them on top of some rice, which is laid on a banana leaf, to serve to the spirits. He also pours rice wine on top of the spirits’ food and chants an invitation in Mon Draa to the spirits.
The ceremony concludes with a communal feast. The pig has been prepared as a variety of different dishes and placed upon tables in the altar room. Everyone who attended the ceremony is invited to partake and the room becomes a place of laughter and story telling which goes on long into the night.
Watch the Full Video
Full video to go with this photo story can be found here:
The Beautiful Mystery of Blonde Hair Among the Hmong
High in the mountains of Southeast Asia, some Hmong children are born with naturally light brown or blonde hair. Science has yet to fully explain this beautiful mystery.
A Rare Sight in the Mountains
The Hmong people live across the highlands of Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and southern China. Their culture is known for its vibrant textiles, farming traditions and deep connection to the mountains they call home. Dark hair is the most common trait within these communities, which makes it even more surprising when a child appears with naturally light brown or even blonde hair.
The photographs above show several Hmong children with strikingly fair hair. Their colouring often catches visitors off guard, as it stands out against the more familiar dark tones seen across the region.
What Causes the Lighter Hair?
The exact reason for lighter hair in some Hmong people is still unclear. Scientists believe it may be linked to unique genetic variations passed through certain family lines. Similar traits have been observed in other isolated communities around the world. However, there has not yet been enough research to determine the precise cause within the Hmong population.
What is certain is that these features occur naturally. The hair often darkens with age, yet in childhood it creates a captivating contrast that draws curiosity and admiration.
More Than Just a Genetic Puzzle
While genetics may offer one part of the answer, the real beauty lies in the way these children carry their heritage with pride. Whether in traditional embroidered clothing or simple school uniforms, their presence is a reminder that culture is not defined by appearance alone.
Each face tells a story of mountain life. Fields, forests and open skies shape their daily world far more than hair colour ever could.
A Living Reminder of Diversity
The Hmong community continues to surprise and inspire. Their traditions remain strong, even as science works to understand the rare traits found among them. Until more studies are done, the blonde hair seen in these villages will remain one of nature’s quiet wonders.
The Rice Harvest in Sapa: Tradition and Community
In Sapa, the rice harvest is more than work. Families gather, traditions are honoured, and communities move together with the rhythm of the terraces.
The Rhythm of the Terraces
Every year in Sapa, the rhythm of life follows the rice terraces. The harvest is a seasonal anchor for Hmong and Dao families, shaping both work and tradition.
When the Harvest Begins
In the lower valleys, cutting starts as early as August, while the higher terraces wait until September. Altitude and weather shift the calendar, but the pattern remains the same: early mornings, hands on sickles, and sheaves carried to dry in the sun.
Ceremony and Meaning
The harvest is not only practical but also ceremonial.
Offering the First Rice
A small portion of the first grains is always set aside for the ancestors and for the spirits of field and water. At the household altar, incense is lit and quiet words are spoken in thanks. These simple rituals bind the community to the land and to generations past.
Working Together
Labour is shared within and between families, keeping old traditions alive.
The Circle of Support
Neighbours and relatives trade days, helping each other through the long hours in the fields. Threshing is often done with simple wooden frames, the rhythm steady and slow. Machines sometimes appear, but on the steep terraces handwork still rules.
A Living Landscape
For visitors, the harvest is a time when the terraces are alive with colour and movement.
Beauty and Survival
Golden fields ripple in the wind as farmers work side by side, their voices carrying across the valleys. What may look like ordinary labour is in fact the heart of the year, deciding food, family, and community.
The Living Blue: Indigo Traditions of Sapa’s Hmong & Dao Communities
In the hills of Sapa, indigo runs deeper than colour. Among the Hmong and Dao, it is identity, tradition and connection. Join us to learn, listen and create.
Indigo as Identity
Step into the hills of Sapa and you will notice a colour that lingers on hands, fabric and memory: the deep, living blue of indigo. Among the Hmong and Dao communities, indigo is far more than a dye. It is identity, tradition and a quiet act of resistance. Families grow it in their gardens, tending the plants season after season, and transforming them into cloth that carries memory and meaning.
Secrets Passed Through Generations
For generations, women have carefully passed down the secrets of indigo. They know how to ferment the leaves, how to coax the blue from green, and how to fold and wax fabric for batik. These skills speak not only of beauty but of belonging. They are not staged performances for visitors, but everyday acts of care, creativity and survival.
Learning Through Experience
When you join an ETHOS trek or take part in one of our batik workshops, you are invited into this living tradition. You might feel the texture of wax on cloth, stir the indigo vat, or hear stories carried in the rising scent of the dye. It is not about mastering a technique. It is about meeting the land and its people with presence and respect.
Why Slow Travel Matters
Slow travel gives space for this kind of learning. It lingers under your fingernails and stays with you long after the colour fades. It is a chance to connect deeply, not only with a craft, but with the people and place that sustain it.
Join the Journey
We would love to welcome you on a journey that honours both land and lineage. Come walk, sit, listen and learn with us in Sapa.
👉 Send us a message to explore upcoming dates or to find out more about our treks and workshops.
The Girl and the Bird: A Tale from the Mountains of Sapa
In the mountains of Sapa, a hungry girl finds a bird in need. What begins as a struggle for survival becomes a story of love and hope.
A Story Rooted in the Hills
High in the mountains of Sapa, where mist lingers over rice terraces and shadows move through the valleys, lives My, a young Hmong girl. Each day begins with the challenge of foraging for food—wild mushrooms, snails, and greens—to ease her family’s hunger.
An Unexpected Discovery
One evening, while searching for berries, My climbed into the branches of a tree. Hidden among the leaves she found not fruit but a fragile nest, home to a tiny bird left alone. Though hunger gripped her, she carried the trembling creature home.
Love Stronger than Hunger
At first, the thought of food tugged at her, yet as the bird sang in her ear, My’s hunger softened. She began feeding it corn from her meagre store. Each chirp brought joy, each small bond stitched love into her heart.
A Bond Forged in Twilight
Though her stomach remained empty, My crafted a nest for her new companion. As the fire burned low, she shared her bed with the bird, their small bodies pressed close against the night. Together they sang beneath the stars, weaving a melody of hope, resilience, and dreams.
Our Culture, Our Future: Passing Traditions to the Next Generation
In the Black Hmong community, sewing is more than a skill. It is a living link to ancestors, identity and history. From an early age, children learn the patterns, techniques and stories woven into traditional clothing, ensuring their culture remains strong for generations to come.
Learning from a Young Age
In the Black Hmong community, children begin to learn the art of making traditional clothes from an early age. This is not only a practical skill but also a way of weaving identity into every stitch.
More Than Sewing
To sew is to carry the voices of ancestors. The patterns, colours, and techniques hold stories passed down for centuries. By learning these skills, children are not only creating clothes but also keeping culture alive.
Keeping Traditions Strong
Each piece of traditional clothing is a reminder of resilience. Teaching children ensures that these traditions will not fade but will grow stronger with every new generation. In this way, the past and the future are stitched together, securing identity and heritage for years to come.
A Little Girl, A Big Imagination: Childhood in Sapa
In the mountains of Sapa, childhood unfolds differently. With no toys but endless imagination, a young Hmong girl transfroms dirt, fields and everyday objects into a world of play. It is a story of creativity, freedom and the quiet magic found in simple moments.
Play Without Toys
In the mountains of Sapa, Vietnam, a young Hmong girl plays with no toys but the world around her. She digs in the dirt, chases dragonflies, and gathers snails from the rice paddies. On this day, she and her friends ground an old brick into powder and used it as makeup.
Turning the Ordinary Into Magic
What others might see as nothing, she transforms into something extraordinary. A brick becomes beauty, the fields become her playground, and imagination becomes her freedom.
The Spirit of Childhood
Childhood in Sapa shows us that joy does not need much. With curiosity and creativity, the ordinary becomes magic. For this little girl, play is not about possessions but about possibility.
The Living Tapestry of Sapa’s Rice Terraces
Carved patiently into the mountainsides of northern Vietnam, the rice terraces of Sapa are both a landscape and a legacy. Built and tended over generations by the Hmong people, they transform rugged hills into sweeping steps of life, each curve holding the imprint of ancestral skill and devotion.
Golden Season in the Highlands
Golden season is calling. Will you answer? Carved patiently into the mountainsides of northern Vietnam, the rice terraces of Sapa are both a landscape and a legacy. Built and tended over generations by the Hmong people, they transform rugged hills into sweeping steps of life. Each curve holds the imprint of ancestral skill and devotion.
Colours of the Season
In summer, the terraces shift in colour as new shoots spread in vibrant green, soft and delicate. As autumn approaches, the rice ripens into gold, glowing in the sunlight and breathing with the rhythm of the sky. The hills are never still. They change daily, painted anew by light and shadow.
More Than Beauty
The terraces are not just a spectacle. They embody the spirit of community. Rice in Sapa is not grown only for nourishment but as a shared endeavour. Families and neighbours work side by side, guided by tradition and necessity. Every grain carries the wisdom of countless harvests and the touch of many hands.
A Story Still Being Written
For the Hmong people, rice is not only food but life itself. It sustains the body, strengthens bonds of family and community, and connects today’s work to the memory of those who came before. These terraces are not silent fields. They are a story of resilience, belonging, and collective care—still being written in earth, water, and time.
