Insights and Stories from Sapa and the Northern Borderbelt provinces of Vietnam.
Red Dao New Year in Sapa: Rituals, Feasts and Traditional Dress at Tết
In the mountains around Sapa, the Red Dao welcome Tết with herbal baths, solemn ancestor worship, generous village feasts and the spectacular fire jumping ceremony. It is a New Year shaped by memory, spirit and striking traditional dress.
Lunar New Year is a deeply spiritual season for the Red Dao people of Sapa. It is a time when the household is spiritually renewed, ancestors are invited home, and the whole villages move through a sequence of rituals that blend belief, family life and celebration.
These days, the Red Dao share the same lunar calendar as the rest of Vietnam, but their customs during Tết are distinctive. Herbal cleansing baths, unique humpback shaped rice cakes, elaborate ancestral offerings and communal feasting all form part of a New Year that is both traditional and joyful.
Preparing for the New Year
Traditional Tết offerings prepared for the Red Dao ancestral altar, including a boiled chicken, sliced pork and ritual foods arranged on banana leaves.
Red Dao boys wearing indigo traditional clothing with embroidered detail, preparing for the New Year celebrations in a mountain village in Sapa.
Hands wrapping bánh chưng gù, the Red Dao humpback sticky rice cake, in forest leaves as part of New Year food preparations.
Preparations begin well before the last day of the lunar year. Homes are thoroughly cleaned, especially the ancestral altar. Red paper cuttings and handmade votive paper are placed around the altar to protect the household from misfortune and invite good luck.
Food preparation is central to this period. Pork is essential for ancestral offerings, and families ensure they have a pig ready for the celebrations. Women lead the making of the Red Dao’s distinctive Tet cake, bánh chưng gù, a small humpback shaped sticky rice cake wrapped in forest leaves. At the same time, women and girls finish embroidery on traditional clothing so that everyone will be properly dressed for the new year.
Everything must be ready before New Year’s Eve because once the new year begins, it is believed that opening cupboards, lending objects or cleaning the house risks losing good fortune.
New Year’s Eve: Herbal Cleansing and Quiet Reflection
On the afternoon of New Year’s Eve, the Red Dao carry out one of their most recognisable rituals. Forest herbs are boiled to create a medicinal bath. Each member of the family washes in this herbal water to remove the old year’s bad luck and prepare spiritually for the new one.
After bathing, everyone dresses in full traditional clothing. The evening is calm and reflective. Families remain inside their homes as midnight approaches.
Midnight: Welcoming the Ancestors Home
At midnight, the family gathers before the ancestral altar. Offerings of pork, chicken, rice cakes, wine and incense are laid out carefully. The head of the household lights incense and recites prayers to invite the ancestors to return home to celebrate Tết with their descendants.
A bowl of blessed water is shared among family members for health and protection in the coming year. Nobody leaves the house during this sacred transition from one year to the next.
Dawn of the First Day: Signs of Fortune
At dawn, family members step outside to collect a fresh green branch which symbolises spring and renewal. A chicken is boiled and its feet are examined carefully. The appearance of the claws is believed to foretell the family’s fortune in the year ahead.
The Great Ancestral Offering and First Feast
The largest ancestral offering of the year is then presented. A pig’s head, chicken, bánh chưng gù, sticky rice, wine and other dishes are placed on the altar. Prayers ask for health, good harvests and prosperity.
After the ceremony, the offerings are taken down and shared as the first meal of the year. Relatives, neighbours and friends are invited to join. The Red Dao believe that a crowded house on the first day brings good fortune, so the celebration often moves from house to house across the village.
A multi-generational Red Dao family sharing a festive meal. The setting feels intimate and celebratory, reflecting the first communal feast of the New Year.
Three Red Dao women wearing embroidered clothing sit together at a table covered with home-cooked dishes. They smile warmly in a dimly lit wooden interior, with bowls of soup, meat, and herbs arranged in front of them, capturing a moment of hospitality and shared celebration during the New Year meal.
Tết Nhảy: The Fire Jumping Ceremony
One of the most extraordinary elements of Red Dao New Year is Tết Nhảy, also known as Pút Tồng. This clan ceremony combines ritual dance, music and a dramatic fire jumping performance.
Led by a shaman, young men perform a series of sacred dances to invite the ancestors and gods to join the celebration. The ceremony builds towards the fire dance, where participants lift flaming papers and leap barefoot across glowing embers. This act symbolises courage, purification and the burning away of bad luck.
Tết Nhảy is recognised as an important element of Red Dao cultural heritage and different to that of the Hmong or in other Vietnamese New Year traditions.
Red Dao man dancing on embers in a family home.
Songs, Games and Teaching the Dao Script
Beyond rituals, the New Year is also a social and educational season. Elders use the first days of the year to teach children the ancient Dao characters and share stories about their ancestors.
The Striking Traditional Dress of the Red Dao
Traditional clothing is an essential part of Tết. Women wear indigo tunics richly embroidered with bright patterns, black trousers decorated with geometric stitching, and the iconic red headscarf with tassels and silver jewellery. Men wear indigo jackets with red accents and headscarves.
Wearing traditional dress honours the ancestors, expresses cultural pride and is believed to bring good luck for the year ahead.
A young Red Dao girl wearing an indigo embroidered tunic and decorative collar, dressed in traditional clothing for the New Year in Sapa.
An elderly Red Dao woman wearing the iconic red headscarf, indigo tunic and embroidered panels that symbolise cultural identity and heritage.
A Red Dao child in traditional indigo clothing with colourful embroidered trim, dressed for Tết celebrations in a mountain village.
A New Year Rooted in Memory and Identity
For the Red Dao of Sapa, Tết is a celebration, the renewal of family ties, spiritual belief and cultural identity carried forward from one generation to the next. Through ritual, food, clothing and community, the Red Dao step together into the new year with hope and deep respect for their past.
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When Good Intentions Aren’t Enough: Child Sellers in Sapa and Ha Giang
In Sapa and along the Ha Giang Loop, children selling souvenirs or offering treks can be a confronting sight for travellers. While often well-intentioned, buying from children keeps them out of school and at risk. This post explores the deeper realities behind child selling and how ethical, community-led tourism can create safer, more meaningful livelihoods for families in northern Vietnam.
As you wander the streets of Sapa, children may approach you with bright smiles and outstretched hands, offering embroidered bracelets, posing for photographs, or inviting you to trek to their village. In Ha Giang, you might see children waiting patiently at mountain viewpoints, dressed in traditional clothing, ready for a photo in exchange for money.
For many travellers, these encounters feel human and heartfelt. Some feel joy at the connection, others a sense of responsibility to help. But behind these moments lies a far more complex reality, one that deserves careful thought.
At ETHOS, we believe that ethical travel begins with understanding. This post is a request: not to photograph children in exchange for money, not to give gifts or sweets to children, and not to buy tours or products from minors. It is also a call to support adult-led, community-based tourism that genuinely strengthens local livelihoods.
The Reality Behind Child Selling
Children selling souvenirs or offering treks are not simply being “enterprising”. Their presence on the streets is often driven by poverty, limited adult employment, and long-standing marginalisation of ethnic minority communities.
While education in Sapa is free up to grade nine, many street-selling children attend school exhausted after long nights working, or miss classes entirely. Money earned today can easily outweigh the promise of future opportunity, especially when families struggle to buy food, clothing, or winter supplies. The long-term cost, however, is devastating. Without education, children are locked out of stable employment and remain trapped in the very cycle visitors hope to help them escape.
Child selling is also closely tied to exploitation. Many children do not keep the money they earn. A portion often goes to adults or covers the cost of the goods they are selling. For the long hours they work, the benefit to the child is minimal, while the risks are considerable.
The Hidden Dangers Children Face
Children on the streets are vulnerable in ways travellers rarely see. Long evenings without supervision expose them to sexual exploitation and trafficking. Sapa, in particular, has become a known target for predators due to the visible presence of children at night. Girls and young teenagers from border regions are also at risk of being trafficked to China. This is not speculation; it is a documented reality.
Older children, particularly girls aged thirteen to sixteen offering cheap trekking services, are also deeply vulnerable. Many live away from home, separated from family and community support. Trekking with a child may feel kind, but it increases their exposure to danger and is illegal for good reason. There is no shortage of skilled, knowledgeable adult guides who can offer a far safer and richer experience.
Why Buying from Adults Makes a Difference
Supporting adult artisans and guides is not only ethical, it is transformative. Many Hmong and Dao women earn supplementary income through guiding, alongside their roles as farmers and mothers. With only one rice harvest per year, most families cannot grow enough food to sell and must purchase essentials. Income from guiding or handicrafts helps bridge this gap.
Their textiles are not souvenirs made for tourists alone. They are intricate, symbolic works created using traditional dyes, batik techniques, embroidery, and brocade weaving passed down through generations. Buying these items out of genuine interest, rather than guilt, honours the skill and cultural knowledge behind them.
Trekking with licensed local guides offers something equally meaningful. Adult guides bring lived knowledge of the land, history, and spiritual traditions of their communities. Many travellers describe these experiences as deeply personal and life-changing.
Tourism, Responsibility and the Bigger Picture
The Ha Giang Loop offers a clear example of how tourism choices matter. When travellers ride with Vietnamese-owned agencies, guided by non-local staff and staying in Vietnamese-owned accommodation, ethnic minority villages bear the disruption without seeing the benefits. Cameras point inward, but income flows outward.
A more regenerative model supports guides and hosts born into these communities, ensuring tourism contributes to local resilience rather than extraction.
You may notice signs in Sapa discouraging visitors from trekking with Hmong and Dao women. From our perspective, meaningful employment for parents is the only real solution to child selling. Many adults over thirty are illiterate due to historical exclusion from education, which limits access to town-based employment. Yet their willingness to work is evident. Men wait daily for manual labour. Women guide when opportunities arise. Tourism, when done thoughtfully, can meet people where they are.
Choosing Ethical Travel
When you choose not to buy from children, you are not withholding kindness. You are choosing long-term safety, education, and dignity over short-term comfort. When you support adult guides, artists, and hosts, you help create livelihoods that keep families together and children in school.
At ETHOS, we believe travel should be immersive, respectful and regenerative. We invite you to walk with care, listen deeply, and make choices that honour the people who welcome you into their mountains and homes.
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The Serene Power of Northern Vietnam’s Man Made Hydro Lakes
Northern Vietnam’s hydro lakes blend human vision with natural beauty. These vast waters support local life, clean energy and quiet travel far from the crowds.
Northern Vietnam is known for its dramatic mountains, lush forests and winding rivers, but it is also home to some of Southeast Asia’s most impressive hydro lakes. These vast bodies of water are the result of major engineering projects, yet they look entirely at home within the landscape. Their sheer scale and calm beauty make them destinations that feel both awe inspiring and deeply peaceful.
A Landscape Transformed by Vision and Engineering
The region’s hydro lakes were created through large scale dam projects that harness the power of fast flowing mountain rivers. When the valleys were flooded, the geography changed forever. What once were river channels and terraced slopes became expansive lakes that stretch for kilometres, curving and branching like inland fjords.
Although these lakes are artificial, they do not feel industrial. The mountains remain untouched and thick with vegetation. Clouds drift low across the water, and the air carries a fresh, earthy scent. The result is a landscape shaped by humans but fully embraced by nature.
Endless Horizons of Still Water and Mist
Visitors are often struck by the way the lakes reflect the surrounding scenery. On a quiet morning the water can appear perfectly still, like polished glass. Forested ridges, limestone cliffs and tiny floating houses are mirrored with astonishing clarity. The atmosphere is often enhanced by gentle mist that rolls across the surface, giving the entire scene a dreamlike quality.
In some areas small islands rise from the water, covered with bamboo and wild plants. These islands create beautiful compositions that feel almost cinematic. In the late afternoon when the sun sinks behind the hills, the lakes glow with soft light that feels peaceful and ancient.
Local Life Along the Water
Despite their remote appearance, the hydro lakes are living landscapes. Local communities fish, farm and travel across the water daily. Long wooden boats glide between floating homes, fish farms and forested peninsulas. Markets gather along the shores and visitors can often share meals of freshly caught fish cooked with fragrant herbs.
Tourism here remains understated. Instead of busy resorts, travellers can find homestays, small eco lodges and guided boat trips that encourage quiet appreciation rather than fast paced sightseeing.
Power, Progress and Preservation
These hydro lakes are vital for Vietnam’s energy supply. They produce electricity for millions while reducing reliance on fossil fuels. Yet what stands out is how gracefully the environment has adapted. Wildlife remains abundant, forests stay green and the lakes have become a source of both sustainability and scenic value.
They show that development does not always have to diminish natural beauty. With careful planning and respect for the land, it can even create new spaces for reflection, adventure and cultural life.
A Destination Worth Exploring
Northern Vietnam’s hydro lakes are functional reservoirs and places where nature and human design exist in harmony. Whether you explore by boat, hike the surrounding hills or simply sit at the shoreline, the stillness and scale will leave a lasting impression.
If you are drawn to landscapes that feel wild yet welcoming, this is a journey worth taking. It is not only about seeing something extraordinary. It is about feeling connected to a place where power and peace flow together.
Ready to Explore on Two Wheels
For those seeking a deeper connection with these waterways, remote mountain communities and the hidden paths in between, our guided motorbike adventures offer a truly immersive way to travel. We ride through highland passes, along lake shores, into caves and across cultural landscapes that many visitors never reach. If you want to combine the freedom of the open road with meaningful, slow travel, explore our routes:
Ride Caves and Waterways
https://www.ethosspirit.com/ride-caves-waterways-5-days
Ride the Great North
https://www.ethosspirit.com/ride-the-great-north
Join us, breathe the mountain air and experience the spirit of Vietnam with every mile.
Tet in Northern Vietnam: What to Expect, When to Travel, and How to Prepare
Tet shapes travel, family life, and village celebrations across northern Vietnam. From red envelopes and homecomings to crowded roads and post-Tet festivals, here is how to plan a thoughtful journey around Tet 2026.
Each year, as winter softens its hold on the Hoàng Liên mountains and the first plum blossoms open along stone walls and village paths, Vietnam moves into its most meaningful season. Tết Nguyên Đán, the Lunar New Year, marks a time of renewal, homecoming, and intention.
In the northern highlands of Sapa, Ha Giang, and the wider border regions, Tet shapes the rhythm of daily life, travel, and community celebration. For visitors, understanding this period allows journeys to unfold with greater care, respect, and connection.
When Is Tet in 2026?
In 2026, Tet begins on Tuesday 17th February, marking the start of the Lunar New Year.
Although the official holiday lasts several days, preparations begin weeks in advance and the effects continue well beyond the celebration itself. Travel patterns, accommodation availability, and village life are influenced for up to three weeks around Tet.
What Is Tet and How Is It Celebrated?
Tet marks the beginning of the lunar calendar and a turning point in family, agricultural, and spiritual life. Across Vietnam, people return to their ancestral homes, clean and repair houses, and prepare food that carries memory, care, and meaning.
Altars are refreshed with kumquat trees, peach blossom branches, incense, and offerings. Kitchens fill with the slow scent of simmering broths and sticky rice wrapped in banana leaves. The first days of the new year are spent visiting relatives, offering good wishes, and resting after a year of work.
One of the most visible customs during Tet is the giving of lì xì, red envelopes containing small amounts of money. These are given primarily to children, but also to elders and unmarried adults, as a symbol of good fortune, health, and prosperity for the year ahead. The red envelope itself carries meaning, representing luck and protection, rather than the monetary value inside. For children, receiving lì xì is a moment of excitement and joy, often accompanied by blessings for growth, strength, and happiness.
In the mountains, Tet aligns with a pause between farming cycles. Fields rest, tools are set aside, and time is made for family gatherings, storytelling, and preparation for the celebrations that follow.
What Tet Means for Travel in Vietnam
Travelling during Tet requires thoughtful planning and realistic expectations.
In the days leading up to and following the New Year, transport networks become extremely busy as families return home. Buses, trains, and flights often sell out far in advance. Many small, family-run businesses close for several days so that owners and staff can spend time with their families.
For travellers, preparation makes a significant difference. Booking accommodation early, allowing extra time for journeys, and accepting a slower pace can turn disruption into an opportunity to witness daily life at a meaningful moment in the year.
The Ha Giang Loop After Tet
The Ha Giang Loop is one of northern Vietnam’s most iconic journeys, and Tet brings a sharp rise in visitor numbers.
From around two days after Tet, the Loop becomes extremely busy. Homestays and hotels fill quickly and often reach full capacity. Roads see heavy traffic from tour groups, motorbikes, and domestic travellers returning from holiday.
For approximately ten days after Tet, riding conditions can feel congested, and accommodation options are limited. Those planning to travel during this period should book well in advance. Travellers seeking quieter roads and a more spacious experience may prefer to arrive before Tet or wait until later in the season.
Sapa During and After Tet
Sapa follows a similar rhythm.
From the second day after Tet, the town and surrounding valleys experience a significant increase in visitors. Hotels fill, trekking routes become busier, and transport costs may rise.
This period of heightened activity usually lasts around ten days, after which the region gradually returns to a calmer pace. Travellers hoping for quieter trails and deeper village engagement may wish to plan their visit outside this window.
Village Festivals After Tet in Hmong and Dao Communities
After the main Tet celebrations each spring, villages around Sapa begin to host their own cultural festivals. These gatherings are deeply rooted in local tradition and follow village-specific calendars rather than national schedules.
Festivals typically begin early in the morning and continue through the day. Larger villages host especially lively celebrations, drawing neighbouring communities together. Events include a wide range of cultural activities and folk games that emphasise health, strength, and skill. Physical ability is highly valued, as agriculture remains central to daily life in the highlands.
Music, dancing, shared meals, and rice wine are all part of the day. Perhaps the most anticipated moment comes with the unveiling of newly handmade traditional clothing. Months of winter are spent preparing these garments, using indigo-dyed organic hemp and intricate silk embroidery. Each piece reflects patience, identity, and pride in craftsmanship passed down through generations.
Alongside these traditional garments, some young women choose modern fabrics and bolder styles, often affectionately referred to as the “glitter girls”. Their presence adds humour, creativity, and a living sense of fashion to the celebrations.
Hmong New Year festivals mark the end of the harvest and the beginning of a new year in the Hmong calendar. They are a time for honouring ancestors, strengthening community bonds, exchanging small gifts, and reflecting on the year that has passed while setting intentions for the one ahead.
For visitors, these festivals offer a rare opportunity to witness culture as it is lived, not staged. Respectful behaviour, local guidance, and patience are essential, as these gatherings remain first and foremost for the communities themselves.
Planning Your Journey Around Tet
Tet can be a rewarding time to travel in northern Vietnam when approached with awareness and care.
Accommodation should be booked early, particularly in Ha Giang and Sapa. Flexible itineraries allow room for transport delays and business closures. Travellers who align their journeys with local rhythms often find deeper connection than those moving too quickly.
At ETHOS, our experiences are shaped in close collaboration with Hmong and Dao partners, following the seasonal cycles of land and village life. Some travellers arrive before Tet to experience quiet mountain days. Others choose to come later, when village festivals bring colour, movement, and shared celebration back to the valleys.
Listening to the people who live here remains the foundation of meaningful travel, whatever the season.
Riding the Backroads of Dien Bien Phu
Join us on a four-day motorbike journey through the quiet valleys and hidden trails of Dien Bien Phu. Along the way, we shared meals, stories and moments of connection with the land and its people.
A Journey Beyond the Beaten Path
Over four days we travelled by motorbike through the upland plateaus and quiet valleys west of Sapa. The route led us ast calm lakes, terraced hillsides and small farming communities where life follows the rhythm of the seasons. It was a journey into the heart of the mountains, where every bend in the road revealed something new and beautiful.
Learning from the Land
Our local hosts guided us with warmth and patience, stopping often to walk, share food and talk about the land. They showed us how to forage for wild herbs, edible shoots and mountain mushrooms. Each stop uncovered another layer of local knowledge, passed down through generations and shaped by a deep relationship with the forest and fields.
Evenings by the Fire
When the day’s riding was done, we gathered beside small fires to share bowls of rice and stories. Conversations flowed in a gentle mix of Hmong, Vietnamese and English. The nights were filled with laughter, soft music and the quiet comfort of companionship under a sky full of stars.
Through the Backroads of Dien Bien Phu
These photographs capture the beginning of that journey through the backroads of Dien Bien Phu. Each image tells a part of the story — of movement, discovery and connection with a landscape that holds both history and peace.
Last Chance to See: A Century of Hmong Clothing in Northern Vietnam
A visual journey through Hmong clothing across four regions of Northern Vietnam, revealing how tradition, identity, and textile art have survived for over a century.
Last Chance to See: Clothing, Change, and Continuity
As part of a photo series titled Last Chance to See, ETHOS explores how clothing has changed over more than a century while still holding deep cultural meaning. This series looks closely at what has endured, what has adapted, and why traditional dress continues to matter today.
Today’s focus is on the Hmong people living in four distinct regions of Northern Vietnam: Mu Cang Chai, Sapa, Ha Giang, and Bac Ha. Each region tells its own story through colour, texture, and design.
The Hmong People and Cultural Identity
Throughout recorded history, the Hmong have remained identifiable as Hmong. This continuity comes from maintaining their language, customs, and ways of life, even while adopting elements from the countries in which they live.
Clothing plays a central role in this identity. It is not simply something to wear, but a visible expression of belonging, heritage, and pride.
Regional Differences in Hmong Dress
Many Hmong groups are distinguished by the colour and details of their clothing. Black Hmong traditionally wear deep indigo dyed hemp garments, including a jacket with embroidered sleeves, a sash, an apron, and leg wraps. Their clothing is practical, durable, and rich in subtle detail.
Flower Hmong are known for their brightly coloured traditional costumes. These outfits feature intricate embroidery, bold patterns, and decorative beaded fringe, making them immediately recognisable.
Paj Ntaub: The Language of Cloth
An essential element of Hmong clothing and culture is paj ntaub, pronounced pun dow. This is a complex form of traditional textile art created through stitching, reverse stitching, and reverse appliqué.
Meaning, Skill, and Tradition
Traditionally, paj ntaub designs are ornamental and geometric. They are mostly non representational and do not depict real world objects, with the occasional exception of flower like forms. The making of paj ntaub is done almost exclusively by women.
These textiles are sewn onto clothing and act as a portable expression of cultural wealth and identity. Paj ntaub play an important role in funerary garments, where the designs are believed to offer spiritual protection and guide the deceased towards their ancestors in the afterlife. They are also central to Hmong New Year celebrations.
Before each New Year, women and girls create new paj ntaub and new clothing. Wearing clothes from the previous year is considered bad luck. These new garments reflect creativity, skill, and even a woman’s suitability as a successful wife.
Why Hmong Clothing Endures
Despite major cultural and social change over the past century, Hmong clothing has endured. Its survival lies in its deep connection to identity, belief, skill, and community. Each stitch carries meaning, and each garment tells a story that continues to be passed from one generation to the next.
Riding a Motorbike in Vietnam: What Licence Do You Need?
Find out which licence you need to ride a motorbike in Vietnam, how the rules differ for engine sizes and what to expect on the road.
Understanding the Rules
For many travellers, exploring Vietnam by motorbike is a dream. Winding mountain passes, rice terraces shimmering in the sun, and the hum of life unfolding in every small roadside town create a sense of freedom that is hard to find elsewhere. But before setting off, it is important to understand the legal requirements.
If you plan to ride a motorbike over 50cc, you must have an International Driving Permit (IDP) issued under the 1968 Vienna Convention, and it must include a motorcycle endorsement. This should be presented together with your home-country driving licence, which also needs to show that you are licensed to ride motorcycles.
Without both documents, you are technically not riding legally. Police checks can be infrequent in some regions, but enforcement can be strict elsewhere, particularly in the northern provinces such as Ha Giang.
Motorbikes Under 50cc
For smaller motorbikes and scooters under 50cc, the rules are more relaxed. No licence is required, and travellers generally face no risk of fines. Some travel insurance policies may even remain valid, though it is always worth checking the details before you travel.
These lighter bikes are often the preferred choice for short rides around towns or rural areas, especially for those new to Vietnam’s roads.
Key Things to Remember
Vietnam recognises only the 1968 International Driving Permit.
Countries such as the USA, Australia, Canada and New Zealand issue only the 1949 IDP, which is not valid in Vietnam. Still, carrying it is sensible, as many insurance companies accept it.
Wearing a helmet is mandatory at all times.
Enforcement varies by region; some areas are lenient, while others enforce regulations closely.
A Few Thoughts Before You Ride
Vietnam’s roads can be thrilling, unpredictable, and deeply alive. Part of the adventure lies in the journey itself, the mist curling around mountain bends, the laughter of children waving as you pass, and the quiet stillness of the countryside once the engine rests.
Travelling here rewards patience and preparation. Check your documents carefully, take time to get used to the rhythm of the road, and always ride with care.
For more guidance on ethical and immersive travel in northern Vietnam, visit ETHOS Spirit of the Community.
Join our ethical motorbike tours.
Stay in authentic Dao and Hmong homestays
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The Heart of the Highlands: The Hmong and Their Water Buffalo
In the highlands of northern Vietnam, the Hmong share a close partnership with their water buffalo, animals that shape their fields, traditions and way of life.
Strength in the Fields
In the mist-covered highlands of northern Vietnam, water buffalo have long stood as steady companions to the Hmong people. They are not merely animals of burden; they are the pulse of rural life. Their strength and endurance make the cultivation of rice and corn possible on steep, uneven slopes where machinery cannot reach. When the plough cuts through the damp earth, it is guided not just by human hands but by a rhythm shared between farmer and buffalo, a quiet understanding built over generations.
For many Hmong families, the buffalo ensures survival. It provides the muscle for planting and the means to feed entire communities. In return, it receives careful attention, shade in the summer heat, clean water from mountain streams, and the steady hand of a child who guides it home at dusk.
A Living Symbol of Wealth and Honour
To own a water buffalo in Sapa is to hold both pride and security. Only about one in ten families in the district have the means to keep them, and for most, they are the most valuable possession they will ever own. Beyond their labour, buffalo represent wealth, stability, and prestige. Their presence at cultural rituals, particularly funerals, underscores their deep spiritual importance.
For the Hmong, the animal embodies prosperity and endurance. Its image appears in folk tales, songs, and embroidery patterns that tell stories of strength and loyalty. It stands as a quiet symbol of the patience required to live in harmony with the mountains.
Guardians of the Land
Between September and April, when the fields lie fallow, buffalo roam semi-wild across the forests and valleys of Sapa. As planting season approaches, they are brought back to graze under watchful eyes. Children often take on this role, herding the animals with laughter and care, ensuring they stay clear of the tender new shoots of rice and corn.
Families work together to protect them, repairing fences, building shelters, and collecting forage. It is a labour of respect, an act of reciprocity. The health of the buffalo is tied to the well-being of the family itself.
A Bond Beyond Work
It might sound strange to those who have never lived alongside them, but water buffalo are often treated as part of the family. They are spoken to softly, their moods understood, their habits anticipated. Farmers know the sound of their calls as well as their own children’s voices. When a buffalo falls ill, the worry is genuine, almost personal.
This bond is rooted in necessity, yes, but also in affection. Over time, work shared under sun and rain builds something deeper than utility. It becomes companionship, one that bridges the fragile line between human and animal.
The Spirit of the Mountains
In Hmong culture, the water buffalo stands as a reminder that strength is not loud or boastful; it is steady, enduring, and gentle when it needs to be. These animals carry the land’s memory in every step, shaping terraces, feeding families, and quietly weaving themselves into the rhythm of mountain life.
They are, in the truest sense, the heart of the highlands.
The La Chí People of Northern Vietnam: Guardians of Ancient Traditions
Meet the La Chi people of northern Vietnam, a community known for its rich traditions, unique customs and exceptional indigo textiles.
The La Chí People: A Living Heritage of Northern Vietnam
Nestled among the misty mountains of Hà Giang and Lào Cai, the La Chí people are one of Vietnam’s most fascinating ethnic communities. With a population of just over 15,000, they live peaceful, sedentary lives in close-knit villages. Their world revolves around cotton cultivation, community traditions and a deep respect for their ancestors.
Family and Belief: The Heart of La Chí Life
La Chí families follow a patriarchal structure where the father, or later the eldest son, guides all aspects of daily life from production and marriage to relationships within the village.
The La Chí believe each person has twelve souls, two of which rest on the shoulders and are considered the most vital. Ancestor worship plays an important role, honouring forebears for three generations, from the father to the great-grandfather. Religious life is well organised, with rituals and customs carefully maintained.
Homes in the Hills: Life in Stilt Houses
Traditional La Chí houses are built on stilts, often surrounded by fields of indigo and rice. The lower level is home to the family kitchen, while the upper living space is divided into three compartments, around six metres wide and seven metres long. A wooden staircase connects the two floors, symbolising the bridge between earth and sky a fitting metaphor for the La Chí connection to both nature and spirit.
Stories Passed Down by Word of Mouth
Knowledge among the La Chí is shared through generations by storytelling. Elders pass on wisdom through legends and fairy tales that teach children about the mysteries of the natural world and the values of their culture. These oral traditions help preserve their history and identity.
A Unique Custom: Exchanging Children
One of the La Chí’s most distinctive traditions involves child exchange between families. When a family wishes for a boy but has a girl, they may offer the child to another household seeking a daughter. The new parents visit, suggest a name and observe the baby’s reaction. A crying infant is believed to refuse, while a calm one accepts the name and joins the new family. This practice, free of taboo, helps maintain population balance and strengthens community bonds.
Masters of the Terraces and the Land
The La Chí are believed to be among the earliest settlers in Hà Giang and Lào Cai. Their ancient tales reference the creation of terraced rice fields; now among Vietnam’s most iconic landscapes. Today, they remain skilled cultivators, tending wet rice fields, growing cotton, indigo and, more recently, cinnamon for trade.
Indigo Elegance: The La Chí Woman’s Dress
La Chí women wear stunning handwoven indigo-dyed clothing. Their outfit includes a four-panel cotton dress with a front split, an embroidered bodice, a cloth belt and a long headdress. The headdress and lapels are decorated with delicate silk embroidery, all in rich shades of indigo.
Creating one complete outfit can take several months, beginning with planting cotton, spinning and weaving the fabric, dyeing it in natural indigo and finishing it with intricate embroidery. Each piece is a testament to patience, skill and pride in their cultural identity.
Preserving a Living Culture
The La Chí people are more than an ancient community they are living storytellers of Vietnam’s northern highlands. Through their textiles, beliefs and traditions, they remind us that culture is not just inherited, it is nurtured with love and lived every day.
A Smile Across the Mountains
In the misted highlands of Vietnam, two La Hù sisters spent sixteen years apart, their reunion arriving not in person but through a single photograph. This is a story of memory, resilience and love that travelled further than any road.
The Sisters Who Waited for Time to Catch Up
Though separated by less than five miles of steep terrain, sisters Lý Ca Su and Lý Lỳ Chí had not seen one another for over sixteen years. Their final years unfolded in quiet solitude, filled with longing, memory, and the ache of distance. The eldest sister had long since passed away, lost to hunger during a time of great scarcity; a sorrow that lingered in every conversation that followed.
The sisters belonged to the La Hủ ethnic group, one of Vietnam’s smallest and most secluded communities, numbering fewer than ten thousand. For generations, the La Hủ lived as semi-nomadic hunters, following the forest’s rhythm across the misted highlands of the far northwest. Change came suddenly in 1996, when hydroelectric projects and government reforms encouraged the community to settle permanently. The forest paths gave way to villages and fields. The transition was uneasy, as traditions adapted and some, quietly, faded.
A Life Divided by Mountains
Lý Lỳ Chí left her childhood home at seventeen. She married early and settled in a neighbouring valley. For many years, the two sisters would make the long, arduous trek along a narrow mountain path to visit each other, their journeys a thread of connection between ridges. But time is unrelenting. Age weakened their steps, and the trail grew quiet. Sixteen years passed without reunion.
By ninety-three, Lý Ca Su had gone completely blind. Her younger sister, at one hundred and three, could still see, but her hearing had faded almost entirely. With no literacy, there were no letters. With no electricity, no phones. The silence between them stretched impossibly wide.
Progress Arrives Too Late
In 2019, a new road was completed linking their villages. What had once taken days could now be done in two hours. Yet for the sisters, it changed nothing. Neither could ride a motorcycle, and there were no cars or buses. Even electricity remained a rumour. The distance was only five miles, but it might as well have been a hundred.
And still, life has its small mercies.
The Photograph That Crossed Mountains
Two years earlier, photographer Réhahn had taken a portrait of Lý Ca Su. Her face, deeply lined, seemed to hold entire lifetimes. Her smile was gentle; the kind that hums quietly rather than shouts. When ETHOS visited the La Hủ villages, they carried that photograph with them and showed it to Lý Lỳ Chí.
For a brief, trembling moment, her eyes brightened. Recognition flickered. The years fell away. She saw her sister’s face again, if only in an image. Tears came, soft and sudden. There was reunion — not in person, but in spirit.
What Remains
Now both sisters have passed beyond this world, and that single photograph holds what words cannot. A connection unbroken by mountains or silence. A reminder that love, in its simplest form, can travel further than any road.
Sometimes, the distance between two hearts is measured not in miles, but in memory.
Thank you to Rehahn for the wonderful photo. To see this and many other portraits, please considering visiting the Precious Heritage Museum in Hoi An.
The Evolving Art of Hmong Textiles in Northern Vietnam
The Hmong of Vietnam are known for expressive textiles full of history, identity, and artistry. Today these traditions are evolving. Are they being protected or transformed?
The Evolving Art of Hmong Textiles in Northern Vietnam
The Heritage of Hmong Clothing
The Hmong people of Vietnam have a long history of creating clothing that reflects their identity and traditions. Textiles are more than fabric. They are a visual language that shows who someone is and where they come from.
Each Hmong subgroup has its own recognisable style. White, Black, Flowery, Red, and Blue Hmong communities are known for different colours, patterns, and decorative techniques. Women’s pleated skirts often include detailed embroidery, batik designs, and appliqué. Blouses and aprons are bright and full of symbolic motifs. Men’s clothing is simpler but still carries meaningful tradition.
Crafting Textiles by Hand
For centuries, Hmong families have relied on handwoven hemp and natural indigo dye. Every step was done by hand. Growing and processing hemp took great effort. Embroidery was slow and highly skilled work passed down from mothers to daughters.
These garments were more than clothing. They showed cultural knowledge and community belonging. Each stitch was carefully placed with purpose.
Modern Influences and Adaptations
Change is happening. Many Hmong households now use commercial cotton and some synthetic materials because they are affordable and easy to work with. This allows clothes to be made more quickly and sold in markets or to tourists.
Some subgroups are responding in a different way by adding more embroidery and creativity than ever before. Their designs are more detailed and far more time consuming to make. Clothing has become a canvas for new artistic expression.
Tourism has created economic opportunities but also brought challenges. Traditional hemp skirts are becoming rare in some villages. Yet hemp fabrics and indigo dyeing are still practised and remain a strong part of cultural identity.
What Textiles Tell Us
When you visit Hmong communities in northern Vietnam, take time to notice the details. Clothing can show migration stories, family history, resilience, and pride in heritage. Patterns and colours protect against misfortune and honour ancestors.
Buying directly from local artisans supports families and helps preserve skills that have lasted for generations.
A Question for You
As traditions evolve, what should stay the same?
Should Hmong textile makers embrace new materials and markets, or is there a risk that important cultural knowledge will be lost?
I would love to hear your thoughts.
Hmong Shamanic Rituals and Lunar New Year Traditions in Vietnam
A rare insight into Hmong shamanic beliefs and a powerful Lunar New Year ceremony that brings community, spirits and healing together in Vietnam.
Hmong Shamanic Rituals and Lunar New Year Traditions in Vietnam
Beliefs in Souls and Spirits
The Hmong are traditionally animist with most Hmong believing in the spirit world and in the interconnectedness of all living things. At the center of these beliefs lies the Txiv Neeb, the shaman (literally, “father/master of spirits”). According to Hmong cosmology, the human body is the host for a number of souls. The isolation and separation of one or more of these souls from the body can cause disease, depression and death. Curing rites are therefore referred to as “soul-calling rituals”. Whether the soul became separated from the body because it was frightened away or kidnapped by an evil force, it must return in order to restore the integrity of life.
Entering the Spirit World
A shaman is transported to another world via a “flying horse,” a wooden bench usually no wider than the human body. The bench acts as a form of transportation to the other world. The shaman wears a paper mask while he is reaching a trance state. The mask not only blocks out the real world, so the shaman can concentrate, but also acts as a disguise from evil spirits in the spirit world. During episodes when shamans leap onto the flying horse bench, assistants will often help them to balance. It is believed that if a shaman falls down before his soul returns to his body, he or she will die.
The shaman is considered a master of ecstasy. It is thought that his soul becomes detached from his or her body during a séance in order to leave for the spirit world. The shaman becomes a spirit and put him or herself on an equal standing with the other spirits. The shaman can see them, talk to them, touch them, and if necessary catch them and liberate them so they can return home.
Sacrifice and Healing
In Hmong culture, the souls of sacrificial animals are connected to human souls. Therefore a shaman uses an animal’s soul to support or protect a human soul. Often healing rituals are capped by a communion meal, where everyone attending the ritual partakes of the sacrificed animal who has been prepared into a meal. The event is then ended with the communal sharing of a life that has been sacrificed to mend a lost soul.
A Lunar New Year Shamanic Ceremony
Beginning the Ceremony
Participants at this lunar new year event begin arriving from early morning, each bringing gifts of incense, shamanic paper and an offering of meat in the form of pork or chickens. The shaman in charge of this ritual, Lý A Cha, begins the ceremony with a chant, using a mixture of Hmong and an ancient dialect called Mon Draa. Even to an outsider’s ear, his words sound different from everyday Hmong speech. The literal meaning of each word has become obscure to many present-day Hmong, even sometimes to those who chant it, yet the purpose of the ritual is to invite the too Xeeb spirit to manifest itself during the ceremony, to accept the offerings of those present, and to agree to provide them with blessings.
Divination with Kuaj Neeb
As he chants Lý A Cha throws the Kuaj Neeb on the ground repeatedly. The Kuaj Neeb is a tool for divination made from two halves of a buffalo horn. They are used to determine which way the soul has gone. The two pieces comprise a couple, and are separately referred to as male or female. When both pieces of the Kuaj Neeb land fat side down pointing in opposite directions, it is believed that the spirits have accepted the offerings and are willing to come to the ceremony to fulfil all wishes made by the participants.
Gong, Sacrifice and Protection
Next, the shaman beats the Nruag Neeb (a small black metal gong) three times while a sacrificial pig is placed on a wooden table next to the altar. The gong amplifies the shaman’s power. It represents spiritual strength through its penetrating, reverberating sound. It also serves to protect the shaman from evil spirits, like a shield.
The villagers have pooled their money to buy the large sacrificial pig, an offering to ask for a New Year blessing for the entire community. Its jugular vein is expertly slit, and there is much jubilation as the first drops of blood are caught in ritual bowls. The animal’s death throes are brief with laughter and happiness deriving from anticipation of the food which the pig will provide, and the prospect of future blessings gained from the animal’s sacrifice.
Calling Spirits and Reading Fate
The shaman follows this by throwing the Kuaj Neeb down on the ground several times, while he chants in Mon Draa. He holds the Nruag Neeb in his left hand. With his right, he alternately strikes the gong several times with the beater. He continues this alternation three times, while he chants in Mon Draa, in order to summon and communicate with the spirits to ask for their blessing (pauj thwv rig).
While the shaman conducts various parts of the ceremony, young men prepare and cook the meat while the women supervise and cook rice. Rhythmic dancing takes place through the day, always in same sex quartets dressed fully in Hmong clothing, yet with bare feet. Each dancer has their own gong and moves together in diagonal lines throughout the space in front of the altar.
Fire, Smoke and Spiritual Energy
As the ceremony enters the afternoon, a second shaman arrives. Giàng A Pho has been studying as an apprentice for many years and is well respected and highly regarded in his own right. Decoratively cut bamboo paper is placed in a line across the floor, one in front of each participant. Bamboo paper is used during shamanic rituals, in divination ceremonies and on other occasions. Today, the shaman chants in front of each participant for several minutes, repeatedly using the split buffalo horns before moving on to the next person. Once completed, the line of papers are ignited and left to burn out. The ashes are then read, allowing the shaman to make statements about peoples spiritual health as well as predictions about when each participant should have their own individual séances.
Next, a pyre is constructed made from the shamanic papers collected during ceremonies through the previous years. These are ignited by Giàng A Pho and manipulated using bamboo poles into a smouldering pile of embers. While Lý A Cha chants in Mon Draa, four other men begin beating their individual gongs with increasing ferocity, reaching a deafening crescendo before Lý A Cha rolls through the embers causing a burst of flames to leap into the air. The other men soon follow, before jumping up and beginning a loud and rhythmical dance through the room now drenched in thick smoke. Their bare feet send sparks flying as they pound the ground.
Offering Food to Spirits and Community
As the smoke clears, two bowls of meat and rice are placed on the altar, along with small cups of homemade rice wine. After toasting the spirits and drinking the rice wine, the shaman cuts some small pieces of pork and puts them on top of some rice, which is laid on a banana leaf, to serve to the spirits. He also pours rice wine on top of the spirits’ food and chants an invitation in Mon Draa to the spirits.
The ceremony concludes with a communal feast. The pig has been prepared as a variety of different dishes and placed upon tables in the altar room. Everyone who attended the ceremony is invited to partake and the room becomes a place of laughter and story telling which goes on long into the night.
Watch the Full Video
Full video to go with this photo story can be found here:
Across the River: A Border Story from Northern Vietnam
A chance meeting with a 68 year old woman near the Vietnam China border reveals how a simple fence can separate families and change daily life.
A Chance Meeting on the Road
While riding in the hills of northern Vietnam, I met a lovely lady named Ma Thị Dủa. She is 68 years old, full of warmth and quick to smile. I always enjoy stopping to talk with local people, so I asked her about her life and what she used to do.
Her story stayed with me.
A Village Divided by a River
She told me that her village sits right beside the Chinese border. The only thing separating the two lands is a small river. In the past, people would cross it freely. Villagers from both sides, including different ethnic groups, would walk across to visit markets in China and vice versa. Villagers would frequently cross both ways.
She described it with shining eyes. The market was always lively and full of colour. Fabrics hung in long bright rows. Spices and fresh food filled the air with their scent. People spoke different languages yet somehow understood one another. It was not just a place to buy and sell. It was where people met friends, shared news and reconnected with relatives.
A Walk Across the Border
She herself used to walk around 4km to reach her nearest market. Her daughter had married a Hmong man in China, so the market trips were not only for shopping. They were a chance to see family, hold her grandchildren and laugh over tea.
Those journeys were part of her life for many years.
Then the Border Closed
After Covid, everything changed. The Chinese side built a fence along the river. The crossing that was once open became blocked by metal.
Now, if she wants to go to a market on her side, she must walk 9km each way. What used to be a simple stroll has become an 18km round trip, and worse than that, she can no longer visit her daughter or her family across the border.
The river is still there, quiet and unchanged. Yet now it divides rather than connects.
A Quiet Reminder of How Borders Shape Lives
Meeting her was a powerful reminder that borders are not just lines on a map. They are real for the people who live beside them. They can carry joy, connection and freedom. They can also bring distance, silence and longing.
All of this came from one gentle conversation on a mountain road. Stories like hers deserve to be heard.
The Beautiful Mystery of Blonde Hair Among the Hmong
High in the mountains of Southeast Asia, some Hmong children are born with naturally light brown or blonde hair. Science has yet to fully explain this beautiful mystery.
A Rare Sight in the Mountains
The Hmong people live across the highlands of Vietnam, Laos, Thailand and southern China. Their culture is known for its vibrant textiles, farming traditions and deep connection to the mountains they call home. Dark hair is the most common trait within these communities, which makes it even more surprising when a child appears with naturally light brown or even blonde hair.
The photographs above show several Hmong children with strikingly fair hair. Their colouring often catches visitors off guard, as it stands out against the more familiar dark tones seen across the region.
What Causes the Lighter Hair?
The exact reason for lighter hair in some Hmong people is still unclear. Scientists believe it may be linked to unique genetic variations passed through certain family lines. Similar traits have been observed in other isolated communities around the world. However, there has not yet been enough research to determine the precise cause within the Hmong population.
What is certain is that these features occur naturally. The hair often darkens with age, yet in childhood it creates a captivating contrast that draws curiosity and admiration.
More Than Just a Genetic Puzzle
While genetics may offer one part of the answer, the real beauty lies in the way these children carry their heritage with pride. Whether in traditional embroidered clothing or simple school uniforms, their presence is a reminder that culture is not defined by appearance alone.
Each face tells a story of mountain life. Fields, forests and open skies shape their daily world far more than hair colour ever could.
A Living Reminder of Diversity
The Hmong community continues to surprise and inspire. Their traditions remain strong, even as science works to understand the rare traits found among them. Until more studies are done, the blonde hair seen in these villages will remain one of nature’s quiet wonders.
Sapa After Typhoon Matmo: Calm Skies and Open Roads
After dramatic headlines, many travellers are asking the same question: is Sapa affected by the typhoon? Here is the reality on the ground. With clear skies, open roads and normal transport services, Sapa remains peaceful and fully accessible for trekking, exploring and experiencing the mountains.
Sapa After Typhoon Matmo: What Travellers Need to Know
Was Sapa Affected by the Typhoon?
Many have seen dramatic headlines and assumed the worst, but here is the truth. The storm passed far to the north and Sapa was not affected. No flooding, no damage, no disruption. While the news focused on chaos elsewhere, the hills of Sapa remained calm.
Current Conditions in Sapa
The past week has been beautifully clear. Cool, dry air has brought crisp mornings and wide views across the valleys. Trails are quiet, the sky is blue and the rice terraces glow in the sun. It is one of the best times to be here.
Travel and Transport Are Running Smoothly
Roads are open, buses are operating as normal and motorbike loops are in full swing. Trekkers are setting off each morning and routes through the mountains are accessible.
If you were worried about cancelled plans, you can relax. Everything is moving as usual.
Life in the Villages
Workshops, homestays and local markets are all open. Families are cooking on wood fires. Children are walking to school. Life feels peaceful and grounded.
Travellers are being welcomed with smiles and hot tea, just as they always are in Sapa.
Should You Visit Now?
If you are travelling in Vietnam and wondering whether to include Sapa in your journey, the answer is yes. Do not let online rumours or overblown social media posts stop you from experiencing one of the most beautiful regions in the country.
Sapa is safe. Sapa is calm. Sapa is ready to welcome you.
Want to See It for Yourself?
If you would like a real glimpse of how Sapa looks right now, have a look at our latest video: https://youtu.be/ph3xV-8XEys?si=xsrPXkipq_cckyRP
And if you are dreaming of trekking through rice terraces, sharing meals with local families or exploring mountain roads on two wheels, we would love to guide you.
You can explore our experiences here: https://www.ethosspirit.com/create-your-experience
The Water Buffalo of Northern Vietnam: Power, Culture and Family
In Northern Vietnam, the water buffalo is far more than a working animal. It is a source of strength, a family companion, and a cultural symbol.
The Symbol of Strength in Northern Vietnam
When travellers picture Northern Vietnam, the image of a water buffalo often comes to mind. Domesticated over 5,000 years ago, these powerful animals have long been essential partners to the Dao and Hmong communities. They plough fields, transport crops, and provide a steady source of strength that rural life depends on.
A Trusted Partner in Rural Life
For many farming families, a water buffalo is their most valuable possession, often worth between $1,000 and $2,500. In a traditional saying, “The husband ploughs, the wife sows, the water buffalo draws the plough and is a friend of the children.” This captures the animal’s central place not only in agriculture but also in family life.
Essential to Hmong Agriculture
Rice cultivation is at the heart of Hmong culture, and water buffalo make it possible. Their ability to work in wet, muddy fields makes them indispensable in rice production. Beyond farming, they serve as financial security, with families able to sell or trade them if needed. Their meat also provides nutrition and income, adding to their importance.
Cultural Meaning and Respect
Water buffalo are more than farming tools. They symbolise prosperity, hard work, and resilience. They appear in folklore, festivals, and traditional art, reflecting their role in Vietnam’s cultural identity. Many families treat them as members of the household, showing care and affection as their livelihoods depend on the health of these animals.
A Way of Life in Sapa
In the Sapa region, water buffalo are treasured possessions. During the busy summer months, when both rice and corn are cultivated, children often tend the animals, guiding them away from fields where they might damage crops. This daily interaction reinforces the bond between families and their buffalo.
Beyond Vietnam: A Global Role
Across the world, water buffalo are valued for their versatility. They provide milk, meat, and labour, while also proving to be intelligent and loyal. They form strong social bonds and can be trained with ease, making them ideal companions in farming communities worldwide.
More Than Animals
Water buffalo embody the connection between agriculture, culture, and family in Northern Vietnam. They are companions, workers, and symbols of resilience. For generations, they have sustained rural communities and remain at the heart of everyday life.
Ride the Untamed Loop: Discover Remote Villages and Hidden Trails in Northern Vietnam
Journey off the beaten path on the Untamed Loop. Discover hidden villages, panoramic mountain roads, and authentic cultural encounters in Northern Vietnam.
Discover the Untamed Loop in Northern Vietnam
If you are searching for a journey that takes you far beyond tourist trails, the Untamed Loop is an unforgettable experience. This two-day motorbike adventure winds through remote mountain roads, lush valleys, and minority villages where life still follows the rhythm of the seasons.
Scenic Roads and Authentic Encounters
The route forms a mountainous figure of eight loop through Muong Khuong District, where sweeping provincial roads meet quiet backroads and occasional gravel paths. Along the way, you pass rivers, rice terraces, green tea plantations, cinnamon hills, and cascading waterfalls.
This is not just about the ride. It is about slowing down, connecting with local people, and sharing moments that leave lasting memories.
Day One: Into the Mountains
The journey begins on winding roads through mountain forests, where the air is crisp and the views are wide. Passing through Hmong and Red Dao villages, you enter landscapes rarely marked on tourist maps.
Midday brings a stop at a local Hmong home for a shared meal. Sitting together, you enjoy simple but powerful hospitality through taste, conversation, and laughter.
In the evening, you arrive at a Red Dao family home in a quiet valley. After a warm welcome, you learn about their traditional herbal medicine and bathing practices, passed down over generations. Dinner is prepared with seasonal, organic produce grown nearby and shared with care.
Day Two: Valleys, Farms and Friendship
The second day begins with a gentle ride into a peaceful lake valley before climbing past rice terraces and mountain farms. Depending on the season, you may see locals planting, harvesting, or drying grains by hand. Every stop reveals a closer connection to the land and the people.
Meals are never taken in restaurants on this route. Instead, families prepare homemade food, often from scratch, filling the table with stories, smiles, and local flavours.
More than a Journey
By the time you return to the mountain roads, you will carry not only the memory of scenic landscapes but also friendships, laughter, and a sense of something deeply authentic. Over two days, the Untamed Loop covers about 200 kilometres. It is not about the distance but the depth of the experience.
Ready to Ride the Untamed Loop?
Take a look at the highlights and hear stories from the road in our video guide: Watch the Untamed Loop Adventure
Ride Beyond the Beaten Path: The Sapa Motorbike Loop Adventure
Ride beyond the beaten path with a two-day motorbike loop from Sapa mountains, markets, hidden caves, and ethnic encounters await.
Ready to Ride Beyond the Usual?
If you’ve been searching for more than the standard Sapa trek, this two-day motorbike loop is built for you. Perfect for seasoned riders, thrill-seeking travellers, and Vietnam-based expats, it promises an adventure that combines breathtaking landscapes with cultural encounters far off the tourist trail.
The Journey: Roads Less Travelled
Your route mixes 70% quiet backroads with 30% off-road trails, winding through misty mountain passes, remote ethnic villages, and secret hidden paths. Along the way, expect wide-open views and the thrill of discovery around every bend.
Cultural Encounters Along the Way
This journey isn’t just about the ride—it’s about connection. You’ll meet the Dao, Hmong, and Nung communities, share their hospitality, and soak in the vibrant atmosphere of Muong Khuong Market, where colours, flavours, and traditions collide. Hidden caves tucked into the hillsides add yet another layer of mystery.
Sleep Your Way: Camp or Stay Local
Choose how you rest after the ride—camp under a blanket of stars or unwind in a cosy local hotel. Both offer a chance to recharge, but each with its own flavour of adventure.
Extend the Adventure
Two days not enough? Stretch your trip to three days and swim in pristine mountain waterfalls, rarely visited by travellers. It’s the ultimate cool-down after hours in the saddle.Important Rider Information
This is a self-drive loop only. Riders must hold either:
• A Vietnamese motorcycle licence, or
• A valid domestic licence from your home country plus a 1968 International Driving Permit (IDP).
Ready to Answer the Call?
Adventure is calling. Questions? Message us today and we’ll help you gear up for the ride of a lifetime.
Threads of Life: Stories of Craft and Culture in Northern Vietnam
Short films capturing the crafts, traditions, and everyday artistry of northern Vietnam. An invitation to travel slowly, ethically, and with connection.
A Window into Everyday Artistry
From the hum of the loom to the quiet rhythm of indigo dyeing, this film series offers glimpses into the artistry woven through the daily lives of northern Vietnam’s upland communities.
Crafted with Care and Respect
Created in collaboration with local people, these short films capture embroidery, foraging, weaving, farming, and festive ceremonies. These are not staged performances, but authentic expressions of life and labour, shared with generosity and pride.
Culture Beyond Spectacle
For us, culture is not a show. It is a relationship. One that is built slowly, with care, respect, and time. These films reflect that belief: culture is lived, not displayed.
Travel That Connects
If you feel drawn to this way of travelling, grounded, ethical, and rooted in community, we invite you to journey with us. From day visits to longer explorations, our experiences connect you directly with the people and landscapes you see on screen.
Watch and Experience
You can watch the full playlist here:
👉 Stories from the Mountains: Northern Vietnam Playlist
And if the stories move you, we welcome you to join us in person, walking the paths, sharing meals, and learning from those who call these mountains home.